Before it dries, you can remove it with mineral spirits if you don't like the results. Also, since it doesn't soak in quite as readily as thinner stains, gel stain is somewhat reversible. There are other products, but Kevin prefers gel stain because he finds it easier to control the color and leave a thicker coat if necessary. Of course, gel stain won't eliminate dark water stains or cover bad defects, but it will hide fine scratches and color in areas where the finish has worn away. He loaded a soft cloth with dark gel stain and worked it into the surface. Kevin demonstrated the tip on this round oak table. The cool part is that you don't need to strip the old finish for this to work. It's amazing what a coat of gel stain can do to restore a tired-looking piece of furniture. One word of caution, though: If you think your piece of furniture is a valuable antique, consult an expert before you do anything. And since you'll preserve the patina and character of the original finish, your furniture will retain the beauty of an antique. Kevin's expertise is the result of more than 20 years' experience working with and learning about wood finishes and furniture repair and furniture refinishing.We'll show you Kevin's tips for cleaning, repairing and restoring finishes without all the messy chemical strippers and tedious sanding. To show you an easier alternative, we enlisted Kevin Southwick, a furniture restoration specialist.Kevin Southwick specializes in the conservation and restoration of antiques and in custom wood finishes. Fortunately, you don't always have to resort to stripping to restore your furniture to its original luster. And sometimes the results aren't as great as you had hoped. Some pros spread the compound out over more than a foot on either side of a butt joint, where there is no valley and there is a bump to hide.Stripping furniture is a messy, time-consuming process. If you are covering a joint where there is no valley, you will need at least a foot-wide knife or trowel. The 6 inch knife spreads the third and final coat out beyond the valley itself. The 4 inch knife spreads the second coat out beyond the edges of the first coat. The narrowest, about two and a half inches wide, applies the first coat of joint compound into the valley created by the indentation of the long edges of both sheets of drywall and beds in the tape. When it comes time to drywall, you will need at least three different widths of spatulas - properly called "knives" or "drywall compound knives". The inside curve scrapes excess paint off of your roller, and the list goes on. The front edge will remove plaster bumps or wall paper. The point will scrape into the grooves of molding. The hole will allow you to pull nails without a hammer. The 9 in 1 tool is very useful for preparing a wall to paint. If you are just sliding under wallpaper, you want it quite thin - less rigid but not actually flexible. In fact, if you are actually shaving wood or paint finish, you will want it solid and sharp. Scrapers are used to take things off, and you want them to be rigid. Technically, this is really the only "putty knife" of the lot - the others are actually spatulas, scrapers and knives Run your finger lightly back over the work to seal it to both the window frame and the glass. You can easily pick up the excess on either side of the nice putty bead. Feed it under the bent, very flexible putty knife and simply move down the window. Hold a ball of it at the base of your fingers, near the palm of your hand. Kneed the putty until it is soft and consistent. That allows you to squeeze in the putty more smoothly. In fact the best window putty knife is extremely flexible. If you want to apply something, like window putty or even plaster, you will want a bit of flexibility. First notice that some are rigid and some are flexible and some more flexible than others. Even just in the Richard's line of tools there is enough choice to make you wonder. It can get confusing at the store when you look at the wide variety of putty knives and scrapers.
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